Izmir gastronomy: boyoz, kumru and Aegean flavours to discover

Boyoz, Izmir's culinary emblem

You cannot visit Izmir without tasting the boyoz, a flaky pastry of Sephardic origin that has been the city's pride for nearly five centuries. Made from a simple dough of flour, oil and water, the boyoz comes in plain, spinach, cheese or tahini versions. A registered trademark since 2017, it is traditionally enjoyed at breakfast with a hard-boiled egg and a glass of tea. The best bakeries are in the Alsancak district, where you can watch bakers stretching the dough by hand at dawn.

Kumru, the king of Turkish sandwiches

The kumru, whose name means «turtledove» in Turkish due to the shape of its bread, is Izmir's signature sandwich. Officially recognised by the Ministry of Culture and Tourism in 2017, it consists of soft bread filled with Izmir tulum cheese, sucuk (spiced sausage), tomatoes and peppers. Served hot, the cheese melts deliciously between the slices. You can find them at specialised stalls, particularly along the Kordon and in the Bornova district. A kumru and a fresh ayran make the perfect lunch between sightseeing.

The flavours of Aegean cuisine

Beyond these two icons, Izmir's gastronomy draws on the richness of the Aegean terroir. Wild herbs (ot kavurmasi), sauteed in olive oil, accompany many dishes. Fresh fish, caught that morning in the gulf, is grilled to perfection in the restaurants of the Kordon district. Mezze, small plates meant for sharing, are a way of life: creamy hummus, smoked aubergine (patlican salatasi), stuffed vine leaves (yaprak sarma) and grilled octopus make up a colourful feast. The region's fruity, golden olive oil is the soul of this Mediterranean cuisine.

Where to eat and what to try

For an authentic experience, start your day in the bakeries of the Kemeraltı bazaar with a warm boyoz. At noon, head to the Kordon for a kumru by the sea. In the evening, settle into a meyhane (tavern) in Alsancak for a mezze dinner accompanied by raki, Turkish aniseed spirit. Do not miss lokma either, golden doughnuts dipped in syrup, distributed free during local celebrations. Izmir is a city where generosity extends to the plate, and where every meal is an invitation to share.